Khumbu Trekking :: Part 2 : Gokyo

After hearing from several friends who'd visited the area, we decided to make Gokyo one of our main destinations. Just one drainage west from the Khumbu glacier and Everest, it sees far fewer tourists and is stunningly beautiful. The walk up from Namche takes about three or four days, even though each day's hiking time is only about one or two hours. Gokyo sits at 15,500 feet, so a slow ascent from 12,000' in Namche is essential. Gokyo is nestled between the third Gokyo lake and the large Ngozumpa glacier, which runs out from the base Cho Oyu (26,906'). We spent four nights here, rising with the sun and spending the clear mornings exploring the area. Afternoons (always cloudy and cold) we hunkered down in the yak-poo heated dining room of our lodge, reading books and chatting with the very international crowd of fellow adventurers.

Gokyo, Gokyo III Dudh Pokhari, and Renjo la pass

Ngozumpa glacier

Cho Oyu, 26,906' / 8201m

Gokyo III lake, Dudh Pokhari, and Renjo la pass

Myself with Cho Oyu & the Ngozumpa glacier

Gokyo IV Tonak Pokhari

Cho Oyu & Gyachung Kang from Gokyo IV lake

The Ngozumpa glacier

Tunes by the lake in Gokyo

The BEST lodge in Gokyo! All rooms are the same price everywhere, but the food here was cheap and tasty - and the proprietor made delicious hot chili sauce.

Solar cooker! Only the "fancy" lodges where big tour groups stayed had these.

Cho Oyu, 26,906'

Gyachung Kang

Gokyo

Cholatse, Taboche and Kangtega at sunrise.
We left Gokyo at 4:30am to climb Gokyo Ri.

Sunrise behind Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cholatse

Summit of Gokyo ri! Beautiful view of Cho Oyu & Gyachung Kang

Cholatse, Taboche and Kangtega with the Ngozumpa glacier and Gokyo lakes II & III

Renjo la pass at the same elevation

Changtse, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Makalu from the summit of Gokyo ri (17,575')

Dragkar go

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Gokyo ri

Cholatse

Everest & Lhotse from Gokyo V Ngozumpa Tso

Everest & Lhotse

Gyachung Kang

Very standard dining room. Get in there by 3pm or else you wont get a seat!

Cholatse

Crossing the Ngozumpa glacier

Khumbu Trekking :: Part 1 : Namche to Gokyo

Ama Dablam

The village of Phortse and Ama Dablam

Yak-tivity on the trail

Kangtega, Thamserku and Dole village

Kangtega, Thamserku and Phortse below

Small glacial drainage that empties into Machhermo, elevation 14,400'

Garbage needs to go somewhere..

We spent two nights here to acclimatize.
No yetis, but the cheapest food in town!

A typical room in a Nepali trekking lodge.
Beds are 2x4's with a thick foam pad. Double rooms are almost always two single beds. A mediocre blanket and pillow are usually provided, but don't plan on using either. Thin plywood separates you from the rooms on either side, so earplugs are essential! There's also no insulation and no heating in the rooms, so a good down bag is a must for the sub-freezing nightly temperatures.

A light dusting of snow gave this morning a beautiful crisp feeling.

First view of Cho Oyu (26,906') below the Ngozumpa glacier terminus

Looking back down the valley. We are now above 15,000'.

Hundreds of cairns near the first Gokyo lake.

Myself and Mervin at the second Gokyo lake

Gokyo II - Taujan Pokari

Cholatse

Gokyo ri (17,575')

Gokyo III - Dudh Pokhari
The trail to Renjo la skirts the far side of the lake and up to the left.

First view of Gokyo village